Welcome to Andorra, one of the smallest sovereign states in Europe, with an area of 468 km2. Bordered by Spain and France, its location in the Pyrenees makes it a country mainly composed of high mountains. Its capital, Andorra la Vella, is also the highest in Europe (1,023 meters above sea level).
It is a country as small as it is charming and which currently have four wine estates. We had the chance to visit two of them. This deserved an article. Because, by hijacking a famous quote by Alfred de Musset, I would say : “No matter the size of the vineyard, provided we have drunkenness”. And we got it.
Arriving with our camper from the Regional Natural Park of Ariège Pyrenees, south, we started to climb the mountain in laces, which unfolded at our feet, towards Andorra. The time trial stage of the Tour de France between Saint-Girons and Foix had just ended. We encountered fun amateur cyclists descending, followed by dozens of motorhomes. The atmosphere was festive.
Located astride the 42nd parallel north, one might rightly think that Andorra enjoys a similar climate to that of the south of France, with which the country is bordering. Not at all. Possessing one of the highest vineyards in Europe, located between 1100 and 1200 meters above sea level, Andorra enjoys ideal climatic conditions. Between spring and summer – starting from flowering(1), until the harvest – the days are mild, warm in summer (31°C during our visit, mid-July).
But the nights are cool and rarely rise above 16-18°C (2). On the rainfall side, precipitation amounts to about 850 millimeters per year (the equivalent of Bordeaux) and are well distributed throughout the year.
Ideal conditions for the production of tobacco, the main agricultural activity of Andorra. And of course, a great terroir for the production of white wines.
Located in Sant Julià, near the Spanish border, the Borda Sabaté estate was planted in 2006, with the desire to be the pioneer of wine tourism in the Principality ; offering all year round various options to visit its vineyards (organized meals, picnics, seminars).
Two hectares of Riesling, Cornalin(3), Merlot and Syrah are planted on slopes and worked following an ecological and biodynamic agriculture, under the guidance of the Rhône-Alpes winemaker Alain Graillot, who consults the estate.
Because of the very steep gravel roads that lead to the vineyard, getting there is a real adventure, as impressive as it is risky, and only possible with a 4X4 vehicle. Upon reaching the summit (1200 meters), we admired the privileged view over the valley, at the top of the sunny side of the Muxella. Magnificent. As for the winery, no less spectacular, as it was built directly into the rock, in order to have a natural and constant freshness.
The work of a titan… and great passion. With (only) two wines and 3,500 bottles produced per year… it is better to visit the estate directly to have the chance to discover this beautiful production.
Not far from here, we discovered the Casa Beal estate. We met with Joan Visa, a genius winemaker and a humble and endearing character.
Joan is a farmer, a profession handed down from generation to generation on the family estate (since 1170!), specializing in the production of tobacco. An ancient art consisting of growing tobacco plants first and then drying the leaves in a well-ventilated, hot and humid place for about 12 weeks.
In 2004, Joan wanted to plant a few vines, to diversify its activities. This was the revelation.
He planted 1.5 hectares, only with Gewurztraminer! And started to produce a unique cuvée, of which he barely makes 1200 bottles in the best years. A wine of extraordinary precision and that I am not ready to forget.
Because even if I’m not always a big fan of the powerful aromas of rose and lychee that are characteristic of wines made from the Gewurztraminer grape variety, I must admit that I fell in love with Joan’s wine, which is based on notes of honeysuckle, mountain flowers and chestnut honey. A pure moment of meditation, which provided proof, if it was necessary, that Andorra can produce great wines. So if you are in te vicinity, stop at Joan’s winery. He will be delighted to welcome you.
As you can understand, wine from Andorra is a rare product. And its price may be high compared to other parts of the world ; legitimated by high production costs. But sometimes, it is also what creates the charm and the magic of a wine.
Thank you to Borda Sabaté and Casa Beal for their warm welcome.
(1) The vegetative cycle is characterized by several stages. After the appearance of the first leaves and first clusters comes flowering, in June.
(2) Source : http://www.climatsetvoyages.com
(3) Cornalin is a black grape vine originating from Switzerland and among the oldest autochthonous vines planted in Valais.